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Painting by Sarah McBeath


Trip Report

Stewart Island Seabirds

12 February 2007

12 of us departed Halfmoon Bay, Stewart Island at 0840hrs for a full day pelagic, everyone still on high after great views of two Stewart Island Kiwi the night before (and back in the Bay before 12midnight!).

The day began with a light SW (5kns) and overcast with a promise of clearing. Out past Ackers Point and we were straight into it – Sooty Shearwaters on masse with attendant White-fronted Terns, then the occasional Buller’s and White-capped Albatrosses. On the run to East Cape and Wreck (or Big) Reef more groups of Sooties, then Common Diving Petrels and the occasional Fairy Prion. At Wreck Reef itself we found large numbers of prions at the edge of the tide ripping through. We stopped to chum and added Southern Royal Albatross to the day’s list. A Broad-billed Prion was seen by one person. At Big Kuri Bay we found two moulting Fiordland Crested Penguins and some Spotted Shags. We hugged the coast from there towards Port Pegasus and were treated to many Sooties and Fairy Prions flying with us – birds and open sea on one side and an extraordinarily rugged coastline on the other – as we headed further south. The vast numbers of Sooties became very much the theme of the day – they seemed to be everywhere. On the run to South Cape we saw more Common Diving Petrels, a Hutton’s Shearwater (found on camera amidst a mass of Sooties). White-capped and Buller’s Albatrosses were always passing through or following the boat, and at South Cape we added a Salvin’s Albatross. On the granite dome of Murphy’s Rock, separated from the main island by a narrow channel (and strong current), we spied a group of roosting terns (20+ White-fronted Terns and 5 Antarctic Terns). An impressive sight with the surge, the exposed strands of bull kelp lifting and dropping with each wave, Sooties and Red-billed Gulls feeding in the channel, the water mix of white foam, and turquoise and deep green water. At Victoria Rocks in the channel between Southwest Cape and Big South Island we spied another Antarctic Tern with Red-billed Gulls, then into Nicholson Harbour (a superb little bush clad cove with sandy beaches and granite headlands) for lunch. Pied Shags and a Variable Oystercatcher (unicolor) on shore, plus Trumpeter, Scarlet and Banded Wrasse and some sizeable Blue Cod in the superbly clear water under the boat. After lunch (1410hrs) we nipped across the channel to Big South Cape Island for Brown (Subantarctic) Skua (5), two more Fiordland Crested Penguins and close views of a Common Diving Petrel in the water before heading back east to North Trap.

On the run through to North Trap we had a nice mob of following albatrosses (Southern Royal, White-capped, Buller’s and Salvin’s) as well as the steady stream of Sooties. A handful of Cape Petrels and a few Common Diving Petrels, then Fairy Prions as we closed in on the reef (North Trap). And a comfortable ride with a following wind and sea. The reef is a set of exposed rocks spread across a fairly wide area and can be seen from a distance. Eruptions of waves breaking above the horizon and the mass of birds, mostly Sooties again. We headed to where the birds were most dense. What a spectacle. We had birds filling the sky, thick across the water in every direction and even swimming under the boat like schools of fish. At 1600hrs we left North Trap and aimed for Wreck Reef once again. We needed Mottled Petrels and also wanted to check out the prions for more Broad-billed. We were also shy on storm petrels. About 15mins later we saw our first Mottled, then another, then a flurry, then a steady stream. Never great numbers, but certainly plenty for us to get good views and photos. Of course we were seeing more Sooties, and the same albatross species. An hour later (1715hrs) a stormy was seen (‘grey-backed’) and although there was nothing else to be seen decided to stop for a chumming session. Within half an hour we’d netted Mottled and Cook’s Petrels, a juvenile giant petrel, a Brown Skua, White-faced Storm Petrels, Fairy Prions, and a Broad-billed Prion as we headed away (most of us missed it). At Wreck Reef itself a fishing boat (cod) had just finished work and there were good numbers of albatrosses hanging around, plus more Mottled and Cook’s Petrels, Fairy Prions and Sooties (of course). Common Diving Petrels zipped in all directions.

At 1800hrs we headed for home and more of the same off Chew Tobacco, Laura’s Leg, Ocean Beach and the Neck (Stewart Island is blessed with some brilliant names – my favourite is Three-legged Woodhen Bay). Plenty of terns feeding of the entrance to Paterson Inlet (no Black-fronted Terns surprisingly) and we added a couple of Blue Penguins as we neared Ackers Point. Back at Halfmoon Bay wharf at 1850hrs.

Once again a Stewart Island pelagic gave us that fabulous mix of seabirds and a coastal landscape that is totally unlike anywhere else in New Zealand. I’m already looking forward to our next venture south – it’s looking like an overnight trip (two days) in April, with a run to the Snares if the weather permits.

Seabirds seen:
Southern Royal Albatross
White-capped Albatross
Salvin’s Albatross
Buller’s Albatross
Giant Petrel (sp) – juvenile
Sooty Shearwater
Hutton’s Shearwater
Mottled Petrel
Cook’s Petrel
Cape Petrel
Common Diving Petrel
Fairy Prion
(Broad-billed Prion)
White-faced Storm Petrel
Fiordland Crested Penguin (don’t believe that FCPs are impossible to get during summer months after late-Nov. – they can be found Dec, Jan and Feb – just a matter of knowing where to look for them)
Blue Penguin
Australasian Gannet (one seen)
Pied Shag
Little Shag
Stewart Island Shag
Spotted Shag
Brown Skua
Black-backed Gull
Red-billed Gull
White-fronted Tern
Antarctic Tern

Happy seabirding

Chris Gaskin
Pterodroma Pelagics



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